Yucatan: Ek’ Balam

View of Ek’ Balam from the top of The Acropolis

Continuing on from the first portion of our recent journey into the Yucatan (see Yucatan: Chichen Itza), the second phase of the journey consisted of lunch and swim at one of the cenotes between Chichen Itza and Ek’ Balam.

Cenote

Three generations of cenote swimmers

The last stop of the day was at the less visited archaeological site of Ek Balam or The Black Jaguar.  Excavations of Ek Balam did not begin until 1998.  Before 1998, it had been swallowed by jungle and mostly hidden under earthen mounds.  When the private tour was booked, I asked for Ek’ Balam to be included in the itinerary.  The booking agent in the hotel said, "sure, we can include Ek’ Balam but not many go there."  When we arrived at Ek’ Balam and began our short walk to the ruins, the guide asked a similar question.  "How did you find out about this place?"  Not many tours know about this place and few visitors request a visit.  I replied that I had read about the place and wanted to see a large, Mayan complex in a state of restoration and without throngs of tourists.  He agreed and said Ek’ Balam was one of his favorites.  He seemed eager to share his knowledge of the complex.  

Walking the short distance between the ticketing office and the entrance to the ruins few visitors were seen.  Very few cars in the parking lot either.  That was a good sign that we might have the site mostly to ourselves.  First glimpse of the Ek’ Balam compound as we exited the jungle path was the main the gate into the site.

Main Gate

The entrance gate or guardhouse is unique in that all four sides are open.  Entering through the gate, turning right, and a few steps down a steep, stone ramp, the compound opens up into a courtyard flanked by buildings.  Some of the structures featured stairways to the top; another featured round towers.

Oval Palace

Oval Palace

Temple with stairway to top

As we walked through the complex, many of the structures still showed their native state.  That is crumbling and fallen stonework, collapsed roofs, and vegetation growing on and among the buildings.  Often I felt as if I stepped back in time and accompanied Stephens and Catherwood as they explored the Yucatan in the mid-1840s.  Atmospheric, for sure.

Twin towers in ruins reminiscent of a Catherwood illustration

Once the young grand kids caught site of the main temple or Acropolis, off they shot to climb the massive structure.  While kids raced off and parents chased, I continued my stroll through the compound with the guide as he explained the complex and its history.

The Acropolis

On a more leisurely approach to the towering Acropolis, we walked by a stone pyramid with stairway leading to the top.  Climbing the stairs and looking, it became apparent that this pyramid was meant as a viewing area for the ball court.  Opposite this wall of the ball court was a mirror court wall and viewing pyramid.

Grandstand with ball court in background

When compared with the gigantic ball court at Chichen Itza, notice that the Ek Balam court is shaped differently despite the small scale.

Ek Balam ball court

After walking through the compound, the guide and I finally joined up with the rest of our group at The Acropolis.  By time we reached the temple, most had already climbed to the top and were looking down upon us.  

Stairs leading up Acropolis

The Acropolis structure is tall at about 100 feet.  This height even surpasses the height of the temple at Chichen Itza.  While no one is allowed to climb Chichen Itza, climbing The Acropolis at Ek Balam has no restrictions.

The Acropolis, itself, contains many carvings and stucco reliefs that are works of art and masterpieces in craftsmanship. The stela aside the massive stairway depicts the head of a serpent with hieroglyphs proclaiming that the stair was built and owned by the ruler of Ek Balam. 

Serpent stela

Midway up and on either side of the stairway are a number of rooms all ornately carved with stucco reliefs.  The focal of the entrance on the left of the stairway is a massive set of carved teeth.

Gate of the Serpent Mouth

Intricate carvings including some wall paintings

Wall painting detail

The Gate of the Serpent Mouth is believed to guard the entrance to the underworld.  A grave was found during excavation of these rooms.  Archaeologists believe the grave was that of the ruler Ukit Can Le'k Tok who reined 770AD-801AD.  The intricate detailing in the stucco reliefs is astounding.  Such fine works of art buried beneath earthen mounds for about 800 years.

Gate of the Serpent Mouth

The visits to Chichen Itza and Ek Balam were well worth a long day out in the Yucatan.  Although my family came along willingly, I hope they enjoyed the journey as much as I!

Jon at the Gate to the Underworld
Snatching victory from the jaws of defeat?

Yucatan: Chichen Itza

El Castillo

Wanting to escape the cold and snow at the end of January, we loaded up the family and flew to Cancun, Mexico.  Pre-trip, the family's main planned activity consisted primarily of sitting on the beach with drink in hand and grandkids in water.  At the top of my list was one day trip into the Yucatan to visit Mayan sites I have yet to scramble around.  Perhaps more if time allowed.

El Castillo

At first, I figured I might be heading out alone since my wife indicated she was not interested in seeing more Mayan ruins.  Nancy is a good sport and has joined along on many of the excursions to visit yet another ancient ruin or battlefield.  Several good stories originate in those excursions including an interaction with a Guatemalan army patrol on the Belize-Guatemala border in 2006.  

After discussing my plans at dinner for a day trip to Chichen Itza, interest increased.   Without much convincing, all agreed that a daylong excursion out into the Yucatan jungles would be a fun family event.  With all joining in, a motor coach, driver, and guide were booked and off we went.  After a two and a half hour drive, we reached Chichen Itza, purchased tickets, and entered the park grounds.

Upon entering the gate, visitors almost immediately encounter the most famous structure of Chichen Itza.  Of course, one reaches the main plaza only after winding one's way through rows of vendors.  Luckily, we arrived early in the morning and the vendors were still setting up their tables for the day.  Emerging from the labyrinth of vendors, we faced the imposing temple of the Kukulcan or El Castillo.  From our vantage point, the temple dominated the landscape.  The stone head of the serpent, Kukulcan, can be seen at the base of the main temple stairway. 

El Castillo

Unfortunately climbing El Castillo is no longer permitted due to a visitor's fall.  El Castillo has been restored to its prior glory with the exception of the eastern stairs.  

El Castillo showing unrenovated east face

The eastern stairs are still in a state of disrepair following years of stone removal from the structure.  Local builders once raided the temple to reuse the stones in their own building projects.  One hotel in the vicinity is composed of stones "quarried" from Chichen Itza. 

El Castillo showing unrestored east face stairs

Having wandered around El Castillo, we turned west and headed in the direction of the Grand Ballcourt.  On the way, a small alter was passed.  Notice the pair of Kukulcan heads framing the stairs.  Also note the fine engravings on the face of the platform. 

Tzompantli platform

Tzompantli platform

Also on the brief walk to the Grand Ballcourt, we passed the Temple of the Jaguar.  Notice the worn statue of the jaguar upon which dignitaries would sit to receive guests and the fine carvings on the interior walls.

Jaguar Temple

Carvings inside Jaguar Temple

As one enters the Grand Ballcourt, a stairway leading up to the top of the ballcourt wall is passed.  From here, spectators would climb these stairs to take up positions overlooking the action on the court below.

Grand Ballcourt Entrance with stairs to spectator area

Detail of temple on top of ballcourt wall showing weathering

Ubiquitous to Chichen Itza, the serpent's head protects the entrance to the Grand Ballcourt.

Grand Ballcourt Entrance with serpent head

Upon entering the ballcourt playing area, one is immediately struck by the size and scale of this structure.  While the design of Mayan ballcourts take many forms, the Grand Ballcourt at Chichen Itza is the largest such Mayan ballcourt yet discovered.  The two scoring rings on either side of the ball-court are about 30 feet off the ground.  Spectators would sit on top of the two walls enclosing the court to watch the game.  

Grand Ballcourt

Grand Ballcourt

Grand Ballcourt

Between the "scorers" platform and the playing field, a gruesome story is depicted in carvings on the wall.  In the carvings, the two teams of six (or was it seven?) players face each other.  The two scorers from each team face one another with teammates lined up behind.  One scorer is kneeling before the other other sans head while the other scorer is standing holding a long knife and his opponent's head.  It was not the scorer from the losing team that lost his head but that of the winner! 

Scoring Ring

Dignitaries Viewing Stand: Grand Ballcourt

Dignitaries Viewing Stand: Grand Ballcourt

Leaving the Grand Ballcourt from the other end, one passes a long line of blocks, each with a carved skull.  This is the Tzompantli Altar or "Skull Platform."  "Winners" of the ball games, would have their heads impaled and planted on the Tzompantli for all to admire.  I am sure others had the honor of having their heads planted here too.

Skull Platform

Skull Platform

After once around the ballcourt, a short walk to took us through the city walls and up to the Sacred Cenote.  While the Yucatan is pocked with cenotes used as sources for drinking water, this cenote was reserved only for religious purposes.  Jewelry, pottery, and skeletons have been brought up from the Sacred Cenote.

Sacred Cenote

Our guide told the story of one of the rituals that would take place at the Sacred Cenote.  The "honoree" would be dressed in celebratory garb and jewels and then confined in a sauna (stone ruins adjacent to cenote in photo below).  The heat and humidity from the sauna would cleanse the human offering and well as put the recipient into a state of trance due to a combination of dehydration and medicines.  In such a state, the victim was lead out of the sauna and pushed into the cenote below.  The state of the victim and weight of accoutrements prompted the sacrificial offering to sink quickly to the bottom of the pool.  

Sacred Cenote with sauna ruins

Back from the stroll to the Sacred Cenote and again on the main plaza, we reach the Temple of the Warriors.  This is a massive structure.  A statue of Chac Mool rests atop the temple.  Fronting two sides of the Temple are the "Thousand Columns" each ornately carved.

Temple of the Warriors

Chac Mool

Temple of the Warriors

Thousand Columns

Thousand Columns

Thousand Columns

Having spent about two and a half hours at Chichen Itza walking the grounds, our guide herded us back to the motor coach to continue our journey.  The second stop for the day would be a cenote where we could take a swim and have lunch before heading out for our final stop of the day at Ek Balam.