Peruvian Highlands - Machu Picchu and the Inca Drawbridge

As promised in the last episode of the Machu Picchu travelogue, the finale of my visit caps off with a hike to the Inca Drawbridge.  For previous travel accounts, please see:

• Day 1
• Day 2

The Inca Drawbridge is not on the citadel site, itself, but about a twenty minute walk from the Guardhouse around the side of Mach Picchu Mountain.  To reach the drawbridge requires a hike that is not difficult but presents a few hazards.  The main hazard is that the pathway around Machu Picchu Mountain is along a narrow footpath with sheer drops of 1,000 feet to the valley floor below.

Path along Machu Picchu Mountain

The second potential hazard encountered on the day of our visit was frequent confrontations with the local fauna.  While seemingly friendly, the llamas felt no urgency in making a pathway around them easy.  With no wall in place along the path, a quick nudge by a llama might spell the end of a good day.

Fauna grazing along the treacherous path

Fortunately, the animals were quite docile and seemed more interested in grazing along the path than causing any intentional mischief.  They even seemed to enjoy a chance at a photo op.

Say "Cheese"

Making our way passed the llamas and a bend in the trail, the Inca Drawbridge is visible in the distance.

First glimpse of Inca Bridge

The construction of the bridge is quite clever.  A wall was built out from the cliff face and a large gap remains.  Wooden planks were placed across this gap which could be retracted to restrict access to the citadel.  A little sentry post overlooks the drawbridge.

Another interesting feature of the wall is a series of "flying steps" protruding out from the wall face.  Having a lengthy rise and no handhold, negotiating these steps would require great care and balance.  The purpose of these flying steps is speculative but a reasonable conclusion is the these steps were used during the construction of the wall.  Even if an attacker attempted access to the path from the steps, a defender could easily thwart any attempt. 

Inca Drawbridge showing "flying steps"

This flying step feature is seen throughout Machu Picchu and the Peruvian Highlands.  These steps could also have been utilized as a means to quickly access a series of terraces.  This feature is encountered on almost all of the terraces we came across.  Flying steps can be found even at the top of Huayna Picchu.

Flying Steps on Huayna Picchu

While the arduous climb up Huayna Picchu was on Day 1, below is a near aerial view of the Machu Picchu citadel from the top of Huayna Picchu.

View of MP Citadel from atop Huayna Picchu

Having made the journey back from the drawbridge safely, time remained to make one more tour of the citadel itself before taking the shuttle back down the mountain.  As we circumnavigated the main plaza, the sense of scale comes into perspective.  The structures are massive.  To provide a sense of the overwhelming nature of the structures, see the photos below with people for reference.  Everything is built on a massive scale and is truly an awesome sight.

Citadel with Huayna Picchu in background

Intiwatana

Eastern Urban Sector

Steep stairway up to the Temple of the Three Windows

Temple of the Sun

After one last photo, we headed back to the citadel entrance and awaited a shuttle.  After a twenty minute ride down the mountain, the shuttle deposited us back in Aguas Calientes. 

Jon with Machu Picchu citadel in background

Aguas Calientes

Peruvian Highlands - Machu Picchu Day 2

A reader responded via email commenting that the Machu Picchu travelogue was interesting but asked when I planned to follow up with a Day 2 travelogue as promised.  Now that the Machu Picchu visit is more than two years in the past, that is a very good question!  The reader is quite right.  I should provide a Day 2 summary of my 2015 visit to Peru's Machu Picchu and follow up on commitments made. To refresh fading memories, Machu Picchu Day 1 can be explored at, Machu Picchu Day 1.

Having climbed Huayna Picchu on Day 1, the main objectives of Day 2 were two hikes: one to the Sun Gate (Intipunku) and the second to the Inca Drawbridge.  The remainder of the day would be spent further exploring the ruins of the citadel. 

As on Day 1, we entered the ruins in the early morning hours.  From the main gate, we opted for a short, steep climb to reach the storehouse for our first glimpse of the day of the citadel. 

Storehouse with citadel in background

After a quick look around and to regain our bearings on the layout of the citadel and environs, the three of us struck out on the Inca Trail to Intipunku.  Guidebooks suggest a two to three hour round trip for the excursion even though the distance is only about two kilometers.  For travelers hiking the Inca Trail with a destination of Machu Picchu, the Sun Gate offers the first glimpse of the citadel.  While we would not be making the trek to Machu Picchu along the Inca Trial, we would get the experience of viewing Machu Picchu from this eastern vantage point.

Beginning of stone path to Intipunku (Sun Gate)

The route to the Sun Gate is longer than it appears.  Some say the high altitude distorts distance.  I do not know about that but the walk was longer than eyesight would suggest.

Trail from Sun Gate to Machu Picchu with shrine in middle left.

Breaking up the hike to the Sun Gate was a stop at a shrine and cemetery marked by a huge 50 foot rock.  Bingham discovered a well preserved burial at the base of the huge rock.

Nancy taking a rest stop at the shrine with rock monument in background

Several passages of steep stairs interspersed the cobbled trail  often requiring a quick stop to catch one's breath before continuing on to the saddle of the mountain. 

Another rest stop on the climb to Intipunku

Upon reaching the Sun Gate, we encountered several small groups enjoying the view.  Some groups were stopping at the Sun Gate after a long trek.  Others, like us, were making an excursion from the main citadel.

Structures at the Sun Gate

You are here!

Structures at the Sun Gate seen from above

Looking upon the citadel complex from the Sun Gate, the switchback road up to the citadel is visible in the foreground.  While a trail exists from the valley floor up to the citadel requiring a 90 minute walk, we opted for the 20 minute shuttle bus ride from our hotel in Aguas Calientes up to the citadel. 

Road winding up to Machu Picchu

Jon taking a rest at Intipunku with citadel in background

After a brief rest and some refreshment, we headed back down the trail to the citadel.  On the hike back, the citadel can be clearly seen as situated in a saddle.

Machu Picchu from Inca trail

Machu Picchu from Inca Trail

Having arrived back at the citadel, we sat down for lunch on the terraces overlooking the citadel.  Of course, our lunch was interrupted several times by llamas wandering the place untethered.

Our lunchtime view - marvelous!

Local resident photobombing my photography

With the recounting and pictorial of the journey to the Sun Gate taking more space than expected, I will end the Day 2 Machu Picchu travelogue with lunch at the citadel.  An exploration of the Inca Drawbridge and the citadel warrants its own entry so I will return to MP at a later date.  I will not wait another two years.  I promise.

Peruvian Highlands - Cusco June 2015

Plaza de Armas

Having returned from Peru more than one year ago, I decided a recap of the Cusco visit was long overdue.  Thus, another installment of the Peruvian Adventure before I strike out on an upcoming fall adventure.

Cusco was the last stop in our two-week vacation to the Peruvian Highlands in June 2015.  The last three days of the trip would be spent milling about this ancient city.  While many use Cusco as an entry point to the Incan Sacred Valley and linger for a day or two before heading out into the Valley, we opted to take the road less traveled and headed straight from the airport down to Pisac in an attempt to reduce the risk of altitude sickness.

At 11,200 feet, Cusco would be the highest elevation during our two weeks.  A seemingly reasonable position would be that we could acclimatize to the altitude as we made our way down the Sacred Valley.  That plan worked well until we returned to Cusco at the end of the trip.  Of the three of us, only my wife, Nancy, succumbed to altitude sickness and that not until the second day in Cusco.  When it came on, it was sudden and vicious.  Luckily, we had medication and the hotel was nearby.  After a restful evening, Nancy returned as a happy traveler but I am getting ahead of the story.  

Nancy on break at fountain

We arrived in Cusco late afternoon following a speedy, one-and-a-half hour taxi ride from Agua Calientes.  Not quite as white knuckled as the ride down the canyon from Cusco to Pisac on our first day but still, it had its moments.  Even before the taxi trip, setting price for the cab trip to Cusco was an experience, in itself.  The cluster of drivers having no English capability and us with very rudimentary language skills, the negotiation process began.

The cluster of cabbies started high, we began low.  After a few minutes of scribbling numbers on upturned palms, we reached agreement on price for three passengers with luggage for the one-way trip to Cusco. We would have paid more and our driver (afterward having discovering that he wanted to return to Cusco before nightfall) likely would have taken less.  On balance, both parties were satisfied with the arrangement.  

Plaza de Armas - La Catedral

Plaza de Armas - Iglesia de la Compania

Although the driver said he could deposit us at our hotel, that was not to be.  We visited Peru during their religious festival of Corpus Christi.  While we saw many of the activities in Ollantaytambo earlier in the trip, we were not expecting it to linger still in Cusco.  When we arrived into the center of the city, our driver motioned that the Plaza de Armas was as far as he could proceed.  All streets around the plaza were barricaded.  The streets and especially the Plaza were filled with people and parades.

Pachacuti in Plaza de Armas

Having paid the driver, he disappeared leaving us among the throngs.  With streets choked with people and only a rudimentary map in hand, making our way to the boutique hotel in the San Blas district, fully laden, would be a challenge.  Knowing that the small hotel would be difficult to find under normal conditions, I positioned Nancy and my sister with our luggage at the corner of the Plaza de Armas and struck out on a reconnaissance mission.

Knowing the general direction, I made my way around the plaza and plunged into the backstreets of Cusco.  After about ten minutes of winding through narrow streets and back alleys, I found the boutique hotel part way up the hill and in a narrow footpath behind the Iglesia de San Blas.  Getting my bearings, I headed back for the girls.

Plaza de Armas from above Cusco

The festivities continued as I squeezed through the crowds making my way back to the Plaza.  Finding my companions, I assured them that I found the hotel and that the walk was neither too difficult nor too far.  After ten or fifteen minutes we reached the hotel.  From the outside, the place did not look like much but when the door opened we were greeted by a welcoming hostess and a peaceful atmosphere.  We checked in and made our way to our rooms.  Heather's accommodations were two floors down from reception while our room was one floor down.  Our room consisted of a sitting room on the first level with a bedroom in a loft.  Both rooms looked out over the hotel's inner courtyard.  Excellent accommodation!

Breakfast at the hotel

View of Cusco from breakfast room

Weary from nearly two weeks in the Sacred Valley, Cusco was meant as a relaxing stop on our trip before returning home.  We planned to wander around the historical center and visit the mercado and other shopping venues.  A list of museums and sights to see were in hand and we set off.

Church of Santo Domingo on top of Koricancha

One stop near the historic center was the Koricancha and Santo Domingo Church and Convent.  The Koricancha was built to honor the Sun God with gold plated walls with precious stones embedded within.  At time of contact, the garden below the temple contained an array of golden and silver statues of life size proportions.  Also present were mummified bodies of Incan nobility.  Of course, upon Spanish arrival, all of the artifacts were stripped from the temple.  On top of the temple  the Santo Domingo Church and Convent were constructed. 

Convent of Santo Domingo

Although a bit of a walk, the Mercado Centrale is a place not to be missed.  The central market in Cusco in the San Pedro distict is mammouth.  With a cavernous food court and dozens of vendors, it is easy to lose ones' way among the crowds and labyrinth of shops and stalls.  Our small group did get separated in this facility on more than one occasion!  

San Pedro Mercado Centrale

Food stalls inside the Market

We arrived at the Mercado as it neared closing time so we only spent about 40 minutes wandering throughout the place,  As it closed, we headed back towards Plaza de Armas to return to our hotel for a rest before dinner.

Walking towards Plaza de Armas from Mercado

After dinner, we were serenaded by a band performing on the San Blas Plaza only a few steps from our hotel.  While quite a party atmosphere, fortunately (for us), the music stopped about 11pm.  

While the girls planned to shop for Peruvian textiles on the morrow, my plan was to hike up to the ruins of Sacsayhuaman overlooking Cusco.  With a strenuous hike up to 12,200 feet, Nancy opted for a more leisurely activity of shopping with my sister.  The massive ruins at Sacsayhuaman warrant a separate tour.

Peruvian Highlands - Machu Picchu Day 1

A continuing saga of my June 2015 Peru Adventure:

Using Aguas Calentes (see Aguas Calientes) as a base camp for two days on the Machu Picchu mountain, we prepared for Day 1 at the Citadel.  Following is a brief pictorial of the highlights at the Citadel on our first day at the famous ruins.

After a good night's sleep and an enjoyable breakfast of eggs, meats, cheeses, and fruits, our trio collected our box lunches provided by the hotel and headed to the bus station.  Although we did not get on the earliest bus heading to the Machu Picchu citadel departing at 0530, we did catch the 0630 bus and arrived at the Visitor's Center by 0700.

Since we held tickets to climb Huayna Picchu at 10:00, three hours were left for ruins exploration before we needed to queue up near the Sacred Rock.

To orient the photos to the layout of the citadel, below is Moon's map of Machu Picchu.  On our exploration of the site, we used this map as guide to find our way around the ruins.

After passing through the turnstiles, a short walk led to the main Visitor's Entrance.  Rather than follow that path into the ruins, we made a hard left up the hill along a winding trail.  That trail led to the terraces overlooking the Caretaker's Hut.

First glimpse of ruins

Caretaker's Hut looking to Huayna Picchu

Caretaker's Hut from terrace below

First look at the Machu Picchu Citadel
before it is enveloped in sunshine

Machu Picchu Citadel

Citadel clinging to the saddle between two mountains

Main Gate entrance from Inca Trail

Descending down towards the Main Square

Sacred Square.  Notice two different styles of stone work.

Caretaker's Hut in background seen from Main Square
with quarry in foreground.

Intihuatana under ever vigilant watch.
First ever abstract art work?

Main Square with huts near Sacred Rock
 at base of Huayna Picchu

Sacred Rock

With 1000 approaching, it was time to make our way over to the Sacred Rock to queue up for the assault on Huayna Picchu.  Only 400 climbers per day are allowed to scale the mountain in 2 x 200 person groups.  After giving the climb a valiant effort, the combination of the altitude and steepness of the climb proved too much for my wife (Nancy).  Nancy turned back just before the steepest and most treacherous part of the ascent.  In addition to narrow, rocky pathways and steep pitches and traverses, the trail included scaling ladders and passing through a very tight tunnel.  To negotiate the tunnel, I had to take off my backpack and push it ahead of me.

Ascent begins

View of Machu Picchu from the ascent of Huayna Picchu

More climbing with Store House
 at top of photo

View of valley far below

View of Machu Picchu from above on Huayna Picchu

The tunnel looms ahead.

Photo Op of climbers emerging from tunnel

Still more climbing to do

Time for a breather from my perch

Placard just below the summit

View of the Store House from above

Descending is as challenging as the ascent.

Descending backwards on all fours!

Back at the Main Square
for a quick bite of lunch and a rest

Walking along foot path
with Temple of Sun (rounded building) in background.

Feeling a bit fatigued by mid-afternoon, we headed back to the Visitor's Center to catch the shuttle bus back down to Aguas Calientes.  The plan for the next day spent at the Citadel was a hike to Inti Punku (The Sun Gate), a hike to the Incan Drawbridge, and a final stroll around the citadel ruins.