Innsbruck, Austria: A Sightseeing Stroll

Maria-Theresien Strasse looking north

Having recounted some of the Innsbruck attractions in earlier posts, (see: Panorama and Hofkirche), and to break up the long line of troops marching off the painting desk, time to explore the beauty of Innsbruck, itself.

The Maria-Theresien Strasse is a major pedestrian area with shops lining both sides of the town square.  Our hotel was situated on this square near the church on the left.  The column seen in the photo is that of St. Anne commemorating the liberation of the Tirol from Bavaria in 1703.  On the top of the column is a statue to St Mary. 

Maria-Theresien Strasse looking south

Maximilian I's Golden Roof

Clock Tower

Nancy posing for a photo op

Triumphal Arch

River Inn

With high mountains dominating the Innsbruck skyline and easy access via public transportation, we opted to spend a few hours making the excursion to the top of Hafelekarspitze using a combination of tram and two gondolas.

Schematic showing routes up the mountain

Once up on top of the mountain and enjoying partly sunny skies, the Innsbruck Valley below unfolds.  Looking south, the winding River Inn is seen with the Brenner Pass in the center background.  Even from this height and distance, the Olympic ski jump at Bergisel can be seen in the center background.  The Bergisel ski jump is only a stone's throw from the Tirol Panorama featured in an earlier blog post. 

Innsbruck Valley with Brenner Pass in back center

Zoomed: Bergisel ski jump is seen in upper center

The views of the Innsbruck Valley below are spectacular as is the high mountain scenery on top.  The rough, jagged rock outcroppings are plentiful and still capped with snow in May.

Innsbruck Valley looking east

From the upper gondola station, the Hafelekarspitze juts out from the mountaintop.  With a well-maintained and worn trail winding its way to the top, it is obvious that the hike to the top is a popular activity.   

Hafelekarspitze 

Hafelekarspitze 

Small warming hut above Gondola station

Upper gondola station with valley below

Having spotted the Bergisel ski jump and gotten our bearings, we descended back into town to catch a bus to Bergisel.  Bergisel was the site of the ski jumping competition in both the 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympic Games.  Once at Bergisel, we took the tram up to the top of the ski jump.  At the top of the tram line, a short walk around the building is required to find the elevator to the top of the jump.  From the top of the jump, Innsbruck unfolds splendidly below.  The steepness of the jump is deceiving and seems not so intimidating.  I might try this!

Bergisel ski jump with Innsbruck as a beautiful backdrop

Steeper than it looks!

Landing area

Olympic cauldrons

With the Kaiserjager Museum nearby and to add a bit of military history or wargaming content to this post, below is a photo taken in the museum of an early jager uniform from the Kaiserjager Regiment. 

Innsbruck, Austria: Hofkirche and Maximilian I

Maximilian I Cenotaph

In our travels to Austria and Germany in May, Innsbruck was the first stop after making the long, transatlantic flight followed by a four and a half hour train from Zurich.  Innsbruck was meant as a destination in which to catch up on lost sleep and adjust to the time change before we set off in earnest.

Besides the Tyrol Panorama (see Tirol Panorama), the Hofkirche was another destination to visit on my "Things to do in Innsbruck" list.  The Hofkirche was built as a memorial to Maximilian I by his grandson, Ferdinand I in 1553. 

Hofkirche

Hofkirche

The inside of the church is dominated by a massive, black marble cenotaph devoted to Maximilian I.  An iron grille encloses the cenotaph.

Ornate iron grille work

Adorning the sides of the memorial are a number of reliefs from important events during Maximilian's reign.  A few of the reliefs in which I could translate the descriptions are:

Capture of Kufstein Fortress, 1504

Victory over Bavarians at Regensburg, 1504

Capture of Fortress of Murano, 1514

Battle relief in which I did not capture the caption 

Encircling Maximilian's cenotaph are 28 large, bronze statues.  The statues are of ancestors, relatives, and heroes.  All face the memorial to honor Maximilian.  

Several of the statues that I could identify are:

Ernest, Duke of Austria

Ferdinand I

King Arthur

Phillip I

Rudolph I

Theoderic the Great

Finally, the hero of the Tyrolean Rebellion of 1809, Andreas Hofer, is buried in the Hofkirche.

Tomb of Andreas Hofer

While Maximilian I is buried elsewhere, the Hofkirche and his memorial are worthy of a visit while in Innsbruck.

Tirol Panorama in Innsbruck

On a recent vacation to Bavaria and the Austrian Tyrol, two nights were spent at Innsbruck as my wife and I adjusted both to an overnight flight and the nine hour time difference from PDT USA.

One of the places on the list of attractions to visit while in Innsbruck was the Tirol Panorama on Bergisel Hill near the base of the Olympic Bergisel Ski Jump.  The panorama is dedicated to the Tyrolean militia's fight against Bavarian attempts to put down a rebellion.  The rebellion around Innsbruck was led by Andreas Hofer whose monument stands near the panorama.

Andreas Hofer Monument

After defeat of Austria during during the War of Third Coalition, control of the Austrian Tyrol was seeded to Bavaria.  When Archduke Charles invaded Bavaria at the outbreak of the 1809 campaign, the Tyrol revolted.  To put down this revolt, Bavarian troops were sent in to squash the rebellion.  Bergisel Hill on the outskirts of Innsbruck was a focal for four battles.  The third battle on 13AUG1809 is the subject of the panorama. 

For a brief history of the third battle, I turn to Wikipedia.

On 13 August, Hofer and 18,000 Tyrolese fought Deroy's division in the third battle of Bergisel. Four Bavarian battalions belonging to General Siebein's 2nd Brigade lost 200 dead and 250 wounded. The 70 companies of rebels lost 100 dead and 220 wounded. After taking hostages from leading local families, Lefebvre abandoned Innsbruck and the last occupation troops were gone from the Tyrol by 18 August.

Speckbacher and 2,000 irregulars attacked the Bavarian garrisons in the villages of Lofer, Luftenstein, Unken, and Mellek on 25 September. Of the 700 soldiers belonging to the Leib Infantry Regiment # 1, 50 were killed and wounded, 300 captured, and 100 missing. The troops were dispersed with only two companies in each village. The detachment in Mellek broke out and retreated north to Bad Reichenhall; the other garrisons were wiped out.  On the same day Haspinger with 2,400 Tyrolese and four guns evicted General-Major Stengel's brigade from the Lueg Pass near Golling an der Salzach. The 3,500 Bavarians and three cannons retreated north to Salzburg. Lefebvre, with 2,000 of Stengel's troops attacked Hallein on 3 October. Haspinger's force, which had lingered in the town, was chased back into the mountains, leaving their six cannons behind.

Andereas Hofer was later betrayed to the French and shot in Mantua 20FEB1810. 

The 360 degree panorama painting depicts the third battle on the Bergisel Heights above Innsbruck.  Enjoy the photos of this marvelous spectacle.

Church in 1809 from painting

Church today from Bergisel Hill

Church close up

Attached to the panaroma by means of an underground passage is the Kaiserjager Regimental Museum.  Plenty of other tourist-worthy sights to see in Innsbruck.  A few of those other sights as well as the Kaiserjager Museum may appear in future posts.