Switzerland: Berner Oberland and the Alps

Staubbach Waterfall in Lauterbrunnen at daybreak

Back to the occasional ramblings and travelogue from my May 2017 Switzerland adventure.  

After a two-day stay in Luzern (see Bourbaki Panorama, A Walk in Luzern, Mt Rigi), Nancy and I boarded a train and headed to the Berner Oberland with a destination of Lauterbrunnen.  On the journey, the train passed several bucolic Swiss towns.  The slight, intermittent drizzle added a sense of ambiance to the journey.  

With a brief train change in Interlaken, we headed south to the Lauterbrunnen Valley and our base for two nights.  The train change in Interlaken not only changed trains but train lines and rail gauge.  The rail line to Lauterbrunnen is along a narrow gauge rail run by a separate company.

Staubbach Hotel - Base Camp

Arriving in Lauterbrunnen, the sight of the town nestled in a deep and narrow gorge is breathtaking.  Adding to the spectacle is the sight of Staubbach Falls cascading from the cliffs above the town. 

Staubbach Falls

After checking into our room at the old Hotel Staubbach and quickly stowing our gear, we returned to the front desk to get a bus timetable to Stechelberg and the tram to the top of the cliff.  With a couple hours remaining before the tram closed for the night, we wanted to make a quick trip up to Gimmelwald just in case the next day's weather precluded a trip up the mountain.  

Lauterbrunnen Valley near Stechelberg

Taking the ride up the cliff in the cable car, the views of the valley below were stunning as seen in the photo below:

Lauterbrunnen Valley from tram to Gimmelwald

Once at the Gimmelwald tram station, we changed trams and took the next leg of the ride up to Murren.  Disembarking in a light snow and fog at Murren, we wandered around the small ski village before heading back down to Gimmelwald.

Nancy bundled up in the cold of Murren

While Murren is the fashionable ski village, Gimmelwald's fashion statement leans towards satisfying the cow culture.  The aroma of the two villages is distinctive.

A dairyman's collection of cowbells

A snowy and foggy Gimmelwald

Down off the mountain before the tram closed for the night, we found a restaurant to try a couple of Swiss staples. For me, I went for the raclette. Nancy chose Rosti. Both good meals. After a chilly walk back to the hotel, we discussed options for tomorrow. If weather was good, we planned an early trip back up the mountain taking the tram to the top of the Schilthorn from Murren.

The next morning was clear.  Anxious to get up onto the Schilthorn before the crowds, we arrived at the tram house in time to climb aboard the first cable car run of the day.  Joining us in that first carload were a few tourists but mostly staff and provisions.  

Sunny early morning in Lauterbrunnen

What a view we had as the cable car climbed off the valley floor!

View down the Lauterbrunnen Valley

We were treated to even more stunning views as the cable car climbed seemingly straight up to the top of the Schilthorn.  Magnificent!

First leg of the Murren to Schilthorn tram

Schilthorn Piz Gloria in distance

When we arrived at the top of the Schilthorn at nearly 10,000 feet, workers at the summit building were busily removing snow from the observation deck due to a heavy overnight snowfall.  The workmen were not pleased with early morning tourists wanting to walk about the observation deck before their task was completed!

Summit building

While we waited for the snow clearing to finish, we took a window seat in the revolving Piz Gloria restaurant for some hot chocolate.  As we sipped the chocolate, we enjoyed a 360 degree view of the Alps without moving from our seats.

For James Bond movie aficionados, the 1969 movie, In Her Majesty's Secret Service was filmed at this mountaintop.  The restaurant and building are filled with Bond movie memorabilia.  This theme extended even into the men's restroom.

"Shake, don't Stir!"

Once outside on the observation deck, Nancy called to me to line myself up at one end of an open-ended tube and snap a photo of her.  What did she have in mind?  I did not know until I stepped up to the other end of the open tube with a line of sight to the Eiger and Monch.  I was greeted by the following sight.  Yes, a star is born.  A Bond Girl, for sure.  Queue the music.

My Bond Girl

With sunny skies, the three mountain peaks of Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau are all clearly identifiable in their majestic beauty.

Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau

After another forty-five minutes taking in the sights, we climbed aboard a cable car and headed back to the valley floor, some 7,000 feet below.

Tram line to Murren with Eiger and Monch in background

Back at the hotel just in time to pick over the last of the breakfast buffet, we quickly made preparations to take the train to Interlaken.  Interlaken was to be the embarkation point for a cruise of Lake Thun.  The Thun Lake and castle cruise is an adventure left for another time.