Yucatan: Ek’ Balam

View of Ek’ Balam from the top of The Acropolis

Continuing on from the first portion of our recent journey into the Yucatan (see Yucatan: Chichen Itza), the second phase of the journey consisted of lunch and swim at one of the cenotes between Chichen Itza and Ek’ Balam.

Cenote

Three generations of cenote swimmers

The last stop of the day was at the less visited archaeological site of Ek Balam or The Black Jaguar.  Excavations of Ek Balam did not begin until 1998.  Before 1998, it had been swallowed by jungle and mostly hidden under earthen mounds.  When the private tour was booked, I asked for Ek’ Balam to be included in the itinerary.  The booking agent in the hotel said, "sure, we can include Ek’ Balam but not many go there."  When we arrived at Ek’ Balam and began our short walk to the ruins, the guide asked a similar question.  "How did you find out about this place?"  Not many tours know about this place and few visitors request a visit.  I replied that I had read about the place and wanted to see a large, Mayan complex in a state of restoration and without throngs of tourists.  He agreed and said Ek’ Balam was one of his favorites.  He seemed eager to share his knowledge of the complex.  

Walking the short distance between the ticketing office and the entrance to the ruins few visitors were seen.  Very few cars in the parking lot either.  That was a good sign that we might have the site mostly to ourselves.  First glimpse of the Ek’ Balam compound as we exited the jungle path was the main the gate into the site.

Main Gate

The entrance gate or guardhouse is unique in that all four sides are open.  Entering through the gate, turning right, and a few steps down a steep, stone ramp, the compound opens up into a courtyard flanked by buildings.  Some of the structures featured stairways to the top; another featured round towers.

Oval Palace

Oval Palace

Temple with stairway to top

As we walked through the complex, many of the structures still showed their native state.  That is crumbling and fallen stonework, collapsed roofs, and vegetation growing on and among the buildings.  Often I felt as if I stepped back in time and accompanied Stephens and Catherwood as they explored the Yucatan in the mid-1840s.  Atmospheric, for sure.

Twin towers in ruins reminiscent of a Catherwood illustration

Once the young grand kids caught site of the main temple or Acropolis, off they shot to climb the massive structure.  While kids raced off and parents chased, I continued my stroll through the compound with the guide as he explained the complex and its history.

The Acropolis

On a more leisurely approach to the towering Acropolis, we walked by a stone pyramid with stairway leading to the top.  Climbing the stairs and looking, it became apparent that this pyramid was meant as a viewing area for the ball court.  Opposite this wall of the ball court was a mirror court wall and viewing pyramid.

Grandstand with ball court in background

When compared with the gigantic ball court at Chichen Itza, notice that the Ek Balam court is shaped differently despite the small scale.

Ek Balam ball court

After walking through the compound, the guide and I finally joined up with the rest of our group at The Acropolis.  By time we reached the temple, most had already climbed to the top and were looking down upon us.  

Stairs leading up Acropolis

The Acropolis structure is tall at about 100 feet.  This height even surpasses the height of the temple at Chichen Itza.  While no one is allowed to climb Chichen Itza, climbing The Acropolis at Ek Balam has no restrictions.

The Acropolis, itself, contains many carvings and stucco reliefs that are works of art and masterpieces in craftsmanship. The stela aside the massive stairway depicts the head of a serpent with hieroglyphs proclaiming that the stair was built and owned by the ruler of Ek Balam. 

Serpent stela

Midway up and on either side of the stairway are a number of rooms all ornately carved with stucco reliefs.  The focal of the entrance on the left of the stairway is a massive set of carved teeth.

Gate of the Serpent Mouth

Intricate carvings including some wall paintings

Wall painting detail

The Gate of the Serpent Mouth is believed to guard the entrance to the underworld.  A grave was found during excavation of these rooms.  Archaeologists believe the grave was that of the ruler Ukit Can Le'k Tok who reined 770AD-801AD.  The intricate detailing in the stucco reliefs is astounding.  Such fine works of art buried beneath earthen mounds for about 800 years.

Gate of the Serpent Mouth

The visits to Chichen Itza and Ek Balam were well worth a long day out in the Yucatan.  Although my family came along willingly, I hope they enjoyed the journey as much as I!

Jon at the Gate to the Underworld
Snatching victory from the jaws of defeat?